The “Perfect” RV (Part 3)

The inside dimensions of the trailer are 16 feet by 7 feet. The roof has been raised by one foot over the standard 7 foot high ceiling making it 8 feet tall inside. This will accommodate the Rhino (side by side). I suspect it will accommodate all ATV models, but didn’t confirm that.

There will be four – 12 VDC LED dome lights centerline on the ceiling. They will be powered by one 12 VDC battery which will be stored inside the trailer. The battery will primarily be charged by a solar panel on the roof. Did not opt for 120 volt AC.

Decided to add two five gallon propane gas cylinders and regulator on the tongue. The spare tire will be mounted above them.

Added four E-track rails, two on each side of the trailer. E-track is a tie-down system for trucks and cargo trailers. It will create a great deal of flexibility for how the trailer can be used. You can find information about it readily on the net.

Besides tie-downs for the ATV and boat, the E-track rail will provide support for furniture, primarily beds which can be put up and taken down (easily I think). Or, they could fold up and be stored against the sides of the trailer – or both. I’ll decide on that later. Also had six rings installed in the floor for additional tie-downs.

The floor will be covered by heavy-duty rubber matting. I want it to be easy to wash out if necessary so I also had a one foot high kick plate will be installed around the perimeter of the floor. The matting extends down the ramp as well.

I decided that insulation was important, so everything but the floor has R7 insulation.

The standard metal door will be replaced by a 36 inch RV door which will have a window and screen. Three additional windows will be added appropriately. They are 30 inches x 22 inches and will pop out per safety standards. I added a few extra running lights and a light by the door.

The trailer will have a “straight axle” upgrade that will create four inches of additional clearance and two boogie wheels should help reduce damage to the rear end of the trailer if (and I will) I drive over sharp inclines like when I take it one the ferry to Webb Track and the tide isn’t perfect.

Went with scissor jacks on all four corners to make it more convenient to keep it level. A cable hatch will allow me to breach the wall with wires or hoses as necessary without making additional holes in the wall.

In order to load my Boston Whaler, I’ll need to build a boat dolly and remove it from the current boat trailer. I’ve been looking at options and going through some mental gymnastics. I’m pretty sure it will work out. I may have to take the 20 HP Mercury motor off each time I load it, which will be a pain. I’m hoping it will squeeze in.

I also have a twelve-foot aluminum boat that would be easy to load, but the whaler is a much better option.

The cargo trailer will also be an option for storage in cases where there is a short-term need such as remodeling and needing a place for furniture storage.

There should be enough room for three people to sleep inside, but they’ll be getting to know each other quite well. I had a Fantastic Fan installed so at least there will be good ventilation.

I would have posted the plan, but it is property of the builder, Forest River, Inc. Wouldn’t want to made anybody mad at me.

Decided to be conservative and go with gray exterior paint.

That’s about it for now. I’m waiting to hear how long it will take to build it. Will post some photos at that time.